The gas used for the Versatip and Versaflame is regular butane gas. This is the same gas that is used for cigarette lighters. Dremel does not sell butane fuel. Butane can be easily found at Home Centers and Hardware dealers. Follow the instruction manual on how to refill the tank.
The Versatip is used for soft soldering applications and pyrography. The pen-shape on this tool makes it very comfortable to use for precise jobs. It also includes more tips than the Versaflame, so it can be used for broader applications. The Versaflame is used for more general soldering work. It can be used as a soldering iron as well as an open flame stationary torch. Both tools can reach a temperature of up to 1200°C, depending on the accessory used. The difference between the 2 tools is that the Versaflame has a higher energy output, so you can heat-up more material in a shorter time.
You can hear the gas flowing when you switch the tool on but it does not ignite. This could be because there is no spark coming from the Versatip. In order to correct this please ensure the Metal Flame Guard is correctly and tightly secured. This will ensure connection to the metal pin which generates the spark. Do not touch the Versatip until it has been cooled down completely.
This could be because the nozzle has become blocked by liquid butane. The most common cause of a blocked nozzle is overfilling of the tank. The tank is full when liquid butane gas escapes from the filling valve. Once this happens please stop refilling the gas to avoid overfilling of the tank. Please refer to the (RE)FILLING THE TANK section of the Versatip manual for more details. If the problem persists, unscrew the Metal Flame Guard. Then unscrew the Ceramic Insulator. Remove the Nozzle with a set of pliers and allow the liquid butane inside the nozzle to vaporize by holding the nozzle for 30 second and then reassemble the components. If a problem persists beyond these suggestions, please contact us so we can provide guidance on getting your tool to us so we can take a closer look at it.
There are only two accessories that can be used in the Engraver - the carbide tip #9924 and the diamond tip #9929. Accessories that work in the high speed rotary tool line are not suitable for use in this impact engraver.
The carbide point will work well for general purpose engraving in most materials. If you have an application that will require continuous work or involves much more brittle material like glass, the diamond tip is designed to handle harder loads for a longer time. It will provide the same engraving performance but will withstand harder materials and/or longer use on ordinary materials.
There is a little set screw on the side of the tool where the point meets the housing of the tool. By loosening that set screw, it is very easy to replace the tip.
It increases or decreases the impact of the engraving tip.
No. The MotoSaw does require use of the blades specifically designed for the MotoSaw. They are all pin-end blades and they are 4" long. Standard scroll saw blades are 5" length.
With the different blades you can cut wood, plastic, and light gauge metal. The MS50 and MS52 will cut wood and plastic in the standard position on the saw. The MS51 is a side cutting blade that allows for greater widths to be cut with the teeth of the blade mounted to the side. The MS53 is designed to cut light gauge metal.
We don't really compare this to a standard scroll saw - standard scroll saws take a variety of blades and they also take up a lot of space. They are often weigh more than 40 pounds without a leg set. The MotoSaw is small, compact and the saw itself weighs less than 3 pounds. Most cutting will be done with the saw mounted in the table - and that can go on a variety of table widths. In the event you have to cut something in an awkward spot, the saw will remove from the base and be taken to the material being cut. The placement and tensioning of the blades is simple and easy - there's no guesswork. And when you're done using the saw you can put it all back in the case and store the saw out of the way.
Several things can contribute to the cut of the blade. One of the contributors is the process by which blades ae manufactured. The blades are actually stamped out and tend to be heavier to one side. The blade will have natural pull to the right as a result. Keep in mind that wood will also have some defined grain running through it. The grain can be filled with sap or heavy fiber and cutting straight can be challenging. It will be important to compensate for both of these factors - even if you're using the miter guide. With a heavier grained wood, it's not impossible that you would have to position that material at an angle to execute a straight cut.
On softer wood you can cut up to ½" thick. Harder wood up to ¼".
If control had been easy and now it's not and you recently changed a blade, make sure you installed the blade with the teeth pointing DOWN. The blade cuts on the down stroke. If the development is recent and you've changed grade of wood or thickness, keep in mind you will have to adjust your feed rate. Make sure you place your drop foot just above you work. That will help with control directly surrounding the blade.
We call those "hurry marks." What's really happening is during the cutting process the feed rate is just heavy enough that the blade is bowing back into the table and slicing into the table a little at a time. We encourage the following - pushing harder will not make the saw cut faster. If you want to cut faster, increase the speed on the saw. You greatest opportunity for success will be developing a moderate feed rate that does not put excess pressure on the blade. A moderate feed rate will extend the life of the blade, the saw, and will produce better results.
The tool heats to a maximum temperature of 1050°.
Yes, you could decrease the temperature with an independent controller. You cannot increase it.
With the hot knife attachment (#499), you will find a combination of cutting and melting through the material.
Those are available through Dremel by calling 1-800-437-3635.
Contact us or send that in to our Service Center. The tips are designed to withstand the higher 1000°+ temperature of the VersaTip. However those will wear and will require replacement. If the tip seems difficult to thread in and out of the nose of the tool, it's a sign that it could be time to replace.